Some of the older OEM specifications are listed here and depending on the performance level of your car are best ignored if you are looking for a quality high performance oil: VW — FINALLY Above is the most accurate guidance I can give without going into too much depth however there is one final piece of advice regarding the labelling.
Certain statements are made that are meaningless and just marketing blurb, here are a few to avoid! Recommended for use where…………… May be used where the following specifications apply…………… Approved by………………………..
Like everything in life, you get what you pay for and the cheaper the oil the cheaper the ingredients and lower the performance levels.
If you want further advice then please feel free to ask here or contact us through our website at www. Please take good care of your S, keep it by your side for long and enjoy it from the bottom of your heart. And share the quality and legacy of the S with many friends so that the legend of the S will continue for long. And share the quality and legacy of the S with many friends so that the legend of the S will continue for long Shigeru Uehara The father of the S Your mileage may vary.
Place the jack stands at the two side jack points at the front of the car, and carefully lower the car onto the jack stands. Always use jack stands! Your jack is built to raise and lower your car, not to keep it raised while you monkey around underneath. Locate the oil drain plug bolt.
It'll be pointing towards the passenger's side on a large piece of metal with ridges. Slide your cardboard and oil drain pan underneath the bolt. Get your 17mm socket or wrench on the bolt and break it free. In my experience it takes quite a lot of force but with enough elbow grease you'll do it. Be careful not to smack the underside of your car once the bolt is free.
If you run into too much trouble a breaker bar might be necessary although I've managed without resorting to one. Now that the bolt is free carefully turn it by hand, making sure to hold on to tight so you don't drop it into your oil pan although you wouldn't be the first home mechanic to do that. Once the bolt is removed the oil will start pouring out.
Eventually the oil will turn from a flowing stream to a small trickle. Remove the oil cap, put in your funnel and pour in some of the new stuff. While the oil finishes trickling out you can begin to remove the old filter. I use an oil filter removal wrench like this. Either from above or below grab on to the oil filter and turn it loose. You shouldn't need much force to break it free. Unfortunately when coming from above there's a wire in the way, so be careful not to damage it.
Now that the filter is loose go ahead and add in some tin foil underneath the filter to catch any oil that might be released when you remove it. Carefully twist the filter off the engine by hand and remove it. It will be partially filled with oil so you'll want to avoid from tilting it.
You'll also want to avoid dropping into your oil drain pan, which I can say from experience is not a good idea. Take your oil drain bolt and clean the threads with paper towels. Dirt in the threads could damage the oil drain plug on your car, which could lead to eventual leaks. Prepare the bolt by adding the new crush washer. There is a lot of debate among people whether or not the cost to have it done professionally is worth it. I cover a lot of the reasons you may want to do it on your own in my previous blog about how to turn off the service light, but the ultimate reason I do it myself is that I prefer to use a specific brand of high-performance synthetic oil in my car.
Dan is a co-founder of Engineswork. He knows everything about internal combustion engines. Ask your questions in comments down below this article - he will be glad to help you anytime. Your email address will not be published. Save my name and email in this browser for the next time I comment.
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